“Trout is similar to salmon but more sustainable. Here I have cured the raw fish in salt and sugar in the same way you would gravadlax—so flavoursome and fresh. It keeps well and looks great on a white plate with some good radishes and pickled items. Horseradish is good from a jar but try making your own with crème fraîche and some acidity from the juice of a lemon to give a nice kick to the fish.”

Serves 10, if using a whole side

Cooking time: 20 minutes; prep time: 30 minutes, plus three days

INGREDIENTS

1 side of trout weighing around 800g, skin on and pin-boned

For the cure:

175g coarse salt

75g good, light brown sugar

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

3 star anise

1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

For the cucumber pickle:

1/2 a cucumber, halved and seeds scraped out

100g caster sugar

200ml cider vinegar

200ml cold water

2 star anise

Pinch salt

For the horseradish:

1 heaped tablespoon freshly grated horseradish, or a tablespoon from a jar

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

Juice of half a lemon

To garnish:

A few radishes, quartered

A few salad leaves, like lamb’s lettuce or watercress

METHOD

To make the cure, combine all the ingredients. Spread half in the centre of a sheet of greaseproof paper. Lay the trout on top and rub the remaining mixture over the top. Press it down and wrap the fish up in the paper. Place on a tray in the fridge for three days.

After three days, remove the fish from the paper and run it under a cold tap for a minute, then pat dry with a clean tea towel. Mix the chopped dill with the olive oil then rub it all over the fish. Wrap in cling film and leave aside for 3 to 4 hours. After this the trout will be ready to be sliced for serving using a sharp serrated knife.

To make the pickled cucumber, slice the cucumber into half-moon shapes and add to a pot with all the other ingredients and bring to the boil. Allow to cool and set to one side. This will keep well in an air-tight jar.

To make the horseradish, mix all the ingredients and give it a little whisk so it stiffens slightly. 

To serve, arrange slices of trout on a plate and then decorate with a few radishes, some lamb’s lettuce or watercress, pickled cucumber, and the horseradish. Perfect with some toasted rye bread.