“Trout is similar to salmon but more sustainable. Here I have cured the raw fish in salt and sugar in the same way you would gravadlax—so flavoursome and fresh. It keeps well and looks great on a white plate with some good radishes and pickled items. Horseradish is good from a jar but try making your own with crème fraîche and some acidity from the juice of a lemon to give a nice kick to the fish.”
Serves 10, if using a whole side
Cooking time: 20 minutes; prep time: 30 minutes, plus three days
INGREDIENTS
1 side of trout weighing around 800g, skin on and pin-boned
For the cure:
175g coarse salt
75g good, light brown sugar
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
3 star anise
1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
For the cucumber pickle:
1/2 a cucumber, halved and seeds scraped out
100g caster sugar
200ml cider vinegar
200ml cold water
2 star anise
Pinch salt
For the horseradish:
1 heaped tablespoon freshly grated horseradish, or a tablespoon from a jar
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
Juice of half a lemon
To garnish:
A few radishes, quartered
A few salad leaves, like lamb’s lettuce or watercress
METHOD
To make the cure, combine all the ingredients. Spread half in the centre of a sheet of greaseproof paper. Lay the trout on top and rub the remaining mixture over the top. Press it down and wrap the fish up in the paper. Place on a tray in the fridge for three days.
After three days, remove the fish from the paper and run it under a cold tap for a minute, then pat dry with a clean tea towel. Mix the chopped dill with the olive oil then rub it all over the fish. Wrap in cling film and leave aside for 3 to 4 hours. After this the trout will be ready to be sliced for serving using a sharp serrated knife.
To make the pickled cucumber, slice the cucumber into half-moon shapes and add to a pot with all the other ingredients and bring to the boil. Allow to cool and set to one side. This will keep well in an air-tight jar.
To make the horseradish, mix all the ingredients and give it a little whisk so it stiffens slightly.
To serve, arrange slices of trout on a plate and then decorate with a few radishes, some lamb’s lettuce or watercress, pickled cucumber, and the horseradish. Perfect with some toasted rye bread.