“It’s still not that common to see pigeon in the shops. I’ve been cooking it for years and find it to be the most amazing source of protein. I love its slightly gamey flavour, and it is relatively cheap. Pigeon is hugely versatile and goes so well with roots, in particular beetroot and celeriac. Spices like cumin and star anise also work well. In this recipe, I’m keeping it nice and simple with good bacon and some toasted nuts.”

Serves 2
Cooking time: 7 minutes; prep time: 10 minutes

INGREDIENTS

2 to 4 breasts of wild wood pigeon, skin on
2 blood oranges, cut into segments
A small handful of peeled hazelnuts
2 large handfuls of mixed salad leaves. A mix of organic mustard leaves, watercress and rocket is good.
3 to 4 rashers of bacon, cut into lardons
4  tablespoons cold-pressed rapeseed oil
1 tablespoon of your favourite vinegar, like a cider or a Beremeal
1 teaspoon runny honey
1 teaspoon grain mustard
A few chives, cut into small batons
Good salt and pepper

METHOD

Toast the hazelnuts in a good frying pan on a high heat for a minute or two, moving them all the time as they brown. Remove and set aside.

In the same pan, add a tablespoon of oil and bring to a moderate heat. Fry the bacon until crispy, but not overly so. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

In the same pan, heat another tablespoon of oil and add the pigeon breasts, skin-side down. Season and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Be careful not to overcook or it will be well done. The meat needs to be rare and pink inside. Remove from the pan and allow to rest with the bacon.

In the same pan, off the heat, add the remaining oil and stir vigorously to combine the remaining delicious bits of goodness. Then add the vinegar, honey and mustard. Stir well, season and taste, then add the chives.

To serve, arrange the salad leaves onto plates. Slice the pigeon into thin slices and arrange over the salad. Then scatter over the bacon, toasted hazelnuts and segments of blood orange. Spoon over the dressing and eat at once. This dish is great served on a big platter in the centre of the table with sautéed potatoes.