A true modern classic this week: 'The River Café Cook Book Two' by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers. It’s a restaurant I think about most days—a place many of you will have been lucky enough to eat in, right on the River Thames near Hammersmith. A simple interior, buzzy atmosphere, an incredible wine list, welcoming service—and the food has always been outstanding. I hope the River Café is running the canteen in heaven when I get there, as most things I see and read in their books are just so good.
It was one of the first true, proper Italian restaurants where ingredients were pushed to the forefront, showcasing food for flavour, texture, seasonality, freshness—not for any other reason. This was book two, following the very popular and very cool 'The River Café Cook Book'. It’s incredible to think this book was first published in 1997—that’s 27 years ago—and it’s still oh so cool. This followed two years after their first bestseller, which won Glenfiddich Book of the Year and cemented the success that made the River Café a true destination.
Many good cooks and chefs have worked here. Jamie Oliver was discovered here, Theo Randall spent years in the kitchen, and many more besides. I love eating here—the food is sublime, with an uncomplicated approach. Think spaghetti with ricotta and rocket, artichokes, wood-roasted vegetables, a simple dish of courgette, parmesan and rocket, or tagliatelle with walnuts and parmesan.
I always say the most amazing food I ate here was squid with chilli, rocket and olive oil. Then a piece of gorgonzola—it was perfect. And the chicken with mascarpone, prosciutto and marjoram stuffed under the skin, roasted in a wood oven for incredible flavour. The first time I ate lamb with salsa verde, I almost fell off the cool chairs they have. Buy this book, read it, use it—and go eat there.






