Nico is a truly classic cookbook, written by a man who many chefs have worked for and are proud to have on their CV. I never did, although I was urged to by my father when he was lecturing at Westminster college in London. Nico had a restaurant just around the corner and he knew the chaps at the college, and they had a good relationship.

Nico Ladenis was a self-taught chef. He was a trailblazer in the top-end dining scene of London in the 70s and 80s. He was bold, confident and a great cook. A bit controversial and a bit scary, but he had a heart of gold. He passed away last year at the age of 89.

Many of today’s great chefs came through his kitchen, taught to his impeccable standards, and he most certainly changed the way chefs cook now. I love this book for many reasons, but mostly because it’s the type of food I was taught to cook. Times change, and it’s a different world now. You might not have heard of him, but he was an absolute legend amongst us chefs.