“This dish goes back generations. I have cooked it for 30 years and I only hope I do it justice. Some chefs have taken this humble bowl of smoked fish, potato and leeks and deconstructed it to make it into a distant cousin of the actual dish, which incidentally has nothing wrong with it so there’s no need for any form of deconstruction! Anyway, enjoy it with this cheese and herb crumb as a main course on a blustery north-east Scotland sort-of-day.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

550g smoked haddock pieces

2 large potatoes, peeled and diced

1 large onion, peeled and diced

1 large leek, washed, sliced and chopped

500ml double cream

Knob of butter

2 handfuls of fresh breadcrumbs, don’t be tempted to use shop-bought breadcrumbs for this, it’s not the same

2 tablespoons curly parsley, chopped

Zest of half a lemon

1 handful grated cheddar, I love Keens just now

Good salt and pepper

Extra parsley for garnish

METHOD

Sweat the onions in the butter in a thick-bottomed pan until translucent. Then add the potatoes and cream. Cook until the potatoes are just soft, then add the leek and cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat and add the smoked haddock. Stir gently until the fish is cooked, and spoon into bowls.

Make the topping by mixing the breadcrumbs, cheese and parsley. Add to each bowl and place under the grill until bubbling and golden. Serve with a sprinkling of parsley.