“Easter and spring are the time of year to appreciate wonderful British lamb. Use a rare breed if you can find some, and perhaps buy a half carcass and share with a friend. Directly bought from a farm or good butcher, it is much cheaper, and freezes well. Here I have married it with barley. I adore the plump texture of cooked barley, and you can add anything you like. I have used kale and carrots, but chard, spinach or any root veg works well. Whatever is in season, or that you have in the fridge.”

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 saddle of Scotch Lamb, bones and outer fat removed, rolled and tied

150g barley, rinsed under the tap

1 handful of curly kale, stalks removed

50g butter, diced

75g Anster cheese, grated

Curly parsley, chopped

Good salt and pepper

1 tablespoon cold-pressed rapeseed oil

A few thyme sprigs

1 clove of garlic, smashed

METHOD

Heat the oven to 190°C

Place the rinsed barley in a pot, season with salt and cover with 750ml of water. Bring to the boil and simmer on a low heat for about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain and keep in a warm place.

Season the lamb. Heat the oil in a frying pan until just starting to smoke, then add the lamb, rolling it in the pan to ensure it browns evenly - this should take 4 to 5 minutes. Keep an eye on the temperature of the pan and turn the heat down if it gets too hot.

Once browned all over, add the smashed garlic and thyme to the pan, and place it in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Make sure there’s still a bit of give when you prod the meat. Remove the lamb from the pan, season it and allow it to rest somewhere warm.

Next, blanch the kale in salted boiling water for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the pot and chop. Then place in a clean pot with the barley and butter, and beat like a risotto. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle in the cheese and the parsley and combine. Taste to see if it needs more seasoning, butter, cheese or parsley.

To serve, flash heat the lamb in a hot oven or under the grill before carving. Arrange slices on warmed plates alongside a spoonful or two of the barley.