“This is the simplest of fillings. It’s basically a duxelle, easy to make and will keep in the fridge for a while. Tarragon isn’t for everyone but it brings out the flavour of the ceps wonderfully here. Likewise, the Madeira in the sauce is a good friend of the mushroom. If you can’t find ceps in local delis or markets, then button mushrooms will be fine. You can make pasta dough, but I have used little wonton wrappers that you can buy from good supermarkets or Asian food stores and make any shapes you wish.”

Serves 2

Prep time: 1 hour; cooking time: 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS

150 to 200g cep mushrooms, brushed clean and given a wipe with a damp cloth, diced into smallish dice
2 banana shallots, peeled and diced small
1 large garlic clove, peeled and diced very small or crushed
1 tablespoon olive oil
A small knob of butter
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
1 tablespoon dried ceps, reconstituted in 50ml boiling water, then finely chopped
A few tarragon leaves for garnish
1 packet wonton wrappers, or make a simple pasta dough with 100g ’00’ flour and 1 egg in a food processor and roll thinly in a pasta machine
75ml double cream
1 tablespoon Madeira
Good salt and pepper
1 egg, beaten and used to seal the edges of the parcels

METHOD

First, make a mushroom duxelle by sweating half the shallots and garlic in a pot with half the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and add the diced mushrooms and butter and cook until it starts to go brown. Then add the cream and chopped tarragon and bring to the boil on a moderate heat then simmer until all the cream is absorbed and the duxelle is thick. Chill in the fridge on a plate for later.

Now to make the sauce. In a clean pot, fry the shallots and garlic gently in the remaining oil until translucent, then add the Madeira. Boil away the alcohol and reduce until a syrup. Next, add the stock, the chopped reconstituted mushrooms and the cream and bring to the boil. Reduce for a couple of minutes, but don’t over-reduce or it’ll become too thick and gloopy. Taste to check the seasoning and set aside.

To assemble the parcels, lay a wonton wrapper flat and place a tiny teaspoon of duxelle in the centre. Brush the edges lightly with egg wash and fold, corner to corner, to make a triangle. Seal the edges carefully. Continue until you’ve used up all the duxelle mixture.

To cook, use a bamboo steamer, or place the parcels on an oiled wire rack being careful not to let them touch each other or they will stick together. Place the rack over a pan of boiling water and cover with another pan to create a steamer. Steam for 5 to 6 minutes until piping hot then arrange on a plate and spoon over the sauce. Sprinkle a few tarragon leaves on top as a garnish. Serve immediately.