“The new season tatties are in from Ayrshire and green things are bountiful. I have become addicted to anchovies, those underrated little fish in a tin. They are bursting with umami and are delicious on a slice of good sourdough with some butter. This dish is simple but it works well. A few bitter leaves like endive or watercress help to bring it all together. Keep the egg runny as it tastes so much better.”

Serves 2
Prep time: 45 minutes to 1 hour, plus overnight; cooking time: 50 minutes 

INGREDIENTS

1 large or 2 small rainbow trout fillets, all bones removed and pin-boned, skin on is fine

1 handful smoking chips, available from game dealers

4 to 6 small, new-season potatoes, washed, skin on

2 organic eggs

A few fillets of good anchovies, I like Ortiz, but any are good

A few bitter leaves like endive, dandelion or watercress, washed

A few dots of crème fraîche

A couple of radishes, washed and sliced

Good salt and pepper

A trickle of extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD

Boil 200ml of water with 20 grams of salt, then leave to chill. Once cold, submerge the trout in the solution for half an hour. Remove, then place on a cooling wire and place in the fridge overnight.

The following day, make a pillow with foil for the smoking chips, and get this hot in a pan. Lay the trout on the cooling wire over the pan and place another pan on top, upside down, to create a hot smoking oven. Keep it on a moderate heat, and don’t leave unattended. Let it smoke for 5 to 7 minutes then turn off the heat and leave for a few minutes to allow the heat to dissipate. Then put the fish back in the fridge.

Boil the potatoes with a little salt. Drain them and leave to cool in the air, don’t run them under the cold tap. Once cool, cut them in half.

Add the eggs to boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Remove from the water and run under a cold tap until cold. Peel them carefully and set aside.

To assemble, place the potatoes on a plate and flake the trout on top. Next, cut the eggs in half and add to the plate. Arrange a few leaves, the anchovies, a few radish slices and dots of crème fraîche on top. Finish with a twist of pepper and a trickle of olive oil.