There are many books in my collection, a few of which—that only come out on special occasions—are very carefully nestled in the bookcase of my ever-so-perfectly-kept home office. That last part is a lie, my office is a mess that resembles a cabbage chopped by a fledgling chef. Needless to say it’s mayhem, or rather, ‘organised chaos’. 

The Scots Kitchen by F. Marian McNeill is one such cherished book. I believe this copy came from my dear father, though I’m not certain how he acquired it. Originally published in 1929 and reprinted many times, this particular edition from 1940 is still delightful. A few scribbles inside suggest it was once given as a gift—a detail I absolutely adore. 

Perhaps you have heard of this book, or even own a copy. It captures a turning point in the history of Scottish cookery. It was very popular in its day, with readers devouring the authentic recipes and fascinating anecdotes. It’s still popular with me at least, as I love nothing more than delving into its pages on a rainy day. 

The book opens with: “this is to preserve the recipes of our old national dishes, many of which, in this age of standardisation, are in danger of falling into undeserved oblivion.” What a wonderful sentiment. As you read through the dishes, recipes, and the ways people ate over time, a rich story unfolds. I adore the rustic feel of the food—no tweezers here (take note, chefs).

The book offers everything from different types of oatcakes and Scots mutton pies to Howtowdie (fowl with a farce in a broth) and Powsowdie (a broth made with sheep heads and trotters). There are plenty of ideas for brose, using oats, oatmeal, peasemeal, and barley meal, or ‘beremeal’ as we call it. And a real fave of mine, how to dress a cod’s head and shoulders. There is also a Hollyrood pudding recipe. I’m pretty sure we have all seen a few of those in our time!

Meg Dods is name-checked throughout. She was a famous cook at the Cleikum Club at an old Borders inn, who was immortalised by Walter Scott in St. Ronans Well. She wrote her own cookery books and was very influential in the early 19th century. I will tell you more about her book in a future instalment…

There’s some absolutely fascinating stuff to be discovered in this book, including a brilliant appendix of Franco-Scottish domestic terms. Literally packed full of things we either don’t know or have forgotten. If you don’t have a copy, and you like all things Scottish food history, get your hands on one!