I love this little book. I bought it for a fiver from Castle Howard’s gift shop when I visited a few years ago. And what a bargain for all that history! 

It’s such a vast building, it knocked me for six. There are beautiful grounds to walk around and the interiors are just gorgeous. Sadly there weren’t any kitchens to look at, at least none that I could find, but what a place. If you are ever in North Yorkshire, go and drink it all in. 

It’s hard to believe some of the recipes in this book were ever served. There are some tasty ones, but also a few horrors, even for me! Take gammon of badger, viper broth or snail water. They sound more like the lunch menu at Hogwarts than a stately home. 

Despite being one of the wealthiest homes in 18th century Britain, it did serve simple food like roast beef and Yorkshire puddings, and bacon and beans, for which there are recipes in this book. 

I also love the poetry of language in old recipes. For example, a recipe for roast chicken with garlic reads, 

“Chose a fine, large, young fowl, or a very fine capon, or paulard, but be nice in the choice of it, for unless it be in itself excellently good, the care and trouble of dressing will be thrown away.”

What a wonderful way to advise on sourcing the best ingredients. 

Throughout the book lots of lemons and oranges are used—perhaps to mask the flavour of badger—as well as plenty of spices, dried fruits and sugar used in the savoury dishes. I think my favourite dish from the book is a recipe from 1734 for trout with fennel. It sounds like something I’d cook today.